Elevation

Update 2 of 2 (scroll down for number 1)
Time: mid-December to present
Location: Nepal

We entered the kingdom of Nepal a week and a half ago, at the less than idyllic border-town Sunauli. The relief was instant: the last people we met on the Indian side were the bicycle-wallahs who were physically tugging us away from their competitors, threatening to kill both each other and us (I think), and some touts trying to convince us that if we didn't exchange our Indian rupees for Nepali ones (in their money exchange shop) the military would most likely shoot us dead upon crossing the border. As soon as we entered the Nepali side, not a person was bothering us the least. And it has only gotten better, at least after the cramped and butt-numbing bus trip that brought us to Pokhara, some thirteen hours (was supposed to be nine, but during the first four hours the bus kept making half an hour-stops every ten minutes or so) later. Our travel-companion at the time, Ben the Australian, got out of the bus to stretch his legs at some point during the night, and realised to his terror that the bus driver's daredevil driving was taking place on a narrow road at the edge of tall, steep mountains, nothing below but a pitch-black abyss. Sigurd S and I were sound asleep, happily oblivious to this fact, and Ben did not have the heart to wake us up. Personally I slept till dawn, and was greeted by the sight of the mighty Himalayas in all their splendour, accompanied by crisp mountain air. Truly amazing. We spent a day in Pokhara making arrangements for a trek in the mountains and buying some necessary gear. Fortunately, it seems every household in Pokhara has their own outlet for (mostly fake) 'North Face' clothing.

Bright and early the next morning we headed out towards the Himalayas. We had signed up for a standard five-day trek, but according to our guide, Bimsen, that route was for 'seventy year old women' and would be too easy for strong young men such as ourselves. Fortunately, we did not disappoint him (we did the standard five-day trek in three), and it was uniformly agreed to extend the route. Bimsen was more than happy about this, perhaps not a shocker coming from a fifty-two year old who firmly rejects fashionable comforts such as socks, beds, and sitting.

In short, the trek was superb. One scenic view relieved the other, we got a glimpse of the rural Nepali lifestyle, and spent the nights in charming teahouses along the way. My 26th birthday was celebrated in one such teahose, in the company of Sigurd, Bimsen and a dozen Korean businessmen and their small army of guides, porters and cooks (!). A curious, but worthy, celebration, certainly one for the books. I went to bed at ten. Speaking of celebration, the night before we witnessed a genuine Nepali party (for some guy's little brother, who had been accepted into the Gurkha military unit). Nepalis party much like westerners: they drink, sing and shout like any sane person would do. One curious phenomenon was the ease and smoothness with which their dancing would shift, or transform, as the music constantly shifted between folk tunes and absolute-yabbadabbadance-McNinetysomething. Our man Bimsen joined in the festivities, or was indeed a festivity in his own capacity, with his peculiar sneaking-about crab-like dancing style. Though techno wasn't his particular cup of tea, his antics worked just as well with this music genre when the folk tunes were too far apart.

We returned to Pokhara a few days ago, and checked into the hotel where we had stayed the first night. One of the guys who works there, who clearly takes his tourism-studies rather seriously (almost to the brink of lunacy), hugged me for about one minute upon our return. The next morning we got on a bus to Kathmandu, capital of Nepal, where we have invaded Sigurd's friend Hans' appartment (thank you for your hospitality, Hans!). We've been chilling out for a few days, taking in the sights, sounds and flavours of Kathmandu, getting ready for our return to India, to the mountainous state of Sikkim. The plan is to head out tomorrow, the 23rd, after having a christmas lunch at the Norwegian embassy (where Hans works). The actual Christmas celebration will, presumably, take place in Sikkim (or, worst case, on a cramped bus bound for Sikkim). We have brought along a bottle of Aquevit (thank you Eva) and a Santa Claus mask for the occasion, and feel confident that these props will ensure a worthy celebration.

On that note, I end this post by wishing you all, from the both of us, a very MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

Sigurd B


Wherever in the world you go, [...] obey the guide

- Bimsen